I had the chance to evaluate SCARPA’s newest replace of its famed Phantom 6000 mountaineering boot through the spring climbing season within the Alaska Vary.
My journey would embody Mt. Huntington in pursuit of some technical goals at decrease elevations. Then a 25-day patrol with Denali Climbing Rangers of the West Buttress as a volunteer for the Denali Rescue Volunteers program.
This was the proper itinerary to evaluate the latest upgrades to the boots in each technical terrains in addition to at excessive altitudes.
In brief: The up to date SCARPA Phantom 6000 proved wholly able to climbing technical terrain and maintaining ft heat as much as the summit of Denali. The boot had the consolation and agility of a single boot however proved heat at increased elevations.
SCARPA Phantom 6000 Testing Grounds
Mt. Huntington
For the primary a part of our journey, two buddies and I flew in to arrange a base camp for 10 days on the base of the west face of Mt. Huntington. With a less-than-ideal forecast and impressive objectives, I used to be skeptical of success however nonetheless excited to climb within the Alaska vary for the primary time.
After a number of days at camp, we set off to aim a route referred to as Polarchrome. It’s a route with little info and solely two identified earlier ascents. Being new to the vary and the much less skilled combined climber of the group, I adopted the primary 4 combined crux pitches.
We discovered “heads-up” terrain as much as M6/7 R in problem with less-than-desirable gear and poor snow circumstances. From there, we made the choice to bail, because the climate was deteriorating. And the unstable forecast for the subsequent few days didn’t appear promising.
After a number of days in camp ready out a small storm, my accomplice and I solely had one first rate climate day earlier than our flight out. We opted to strive the basic West Face Couloir. It’s an ice-climbing route principally, with some steep snow and reasonable combined terrain sprinkled in.
With just one full day, our plan was to climb so far as potential earlier than retreating to ensure we made our airplane out the subsequent morning. Throughout our lengthy day trip, we slogged by way of thigh-deep snow for 3 hours on the strategy and up greater than 1,000 ft of steep snow. We then ascended six pitches of ice as much as WI4 earlier than descending and flying out early the subsequent morning.
Denali West Buttress
For the second a part of the journey, I equipped with the Denali Climbing Rangers to accompany them on a 25-day West Buttress Search and Rescue Patrol. That is a part of the Denali Rescue Volunteers program.
Our itinerary was to spend a couple of week making our method up from base camp to the 14k-foot camp earlier than spending 10 days acclimatizing there. From there, we made a push to the 17k-foot camp and had a profitable summit day due to wonderful splitter climate.
I had the prospect to make use of the SCARPA Phantom 6000 boots on the entire terrains from the 14k-foot camp upward. I used to be pleasantly stunned with the boot’s efficiency. Under are my ideas after spending roughly 28 days this spring season utilizing the brand new Phantom 6000.
SCARPA Phantom 6000 Boot Evaluate
Sizing and Match
My foot is a typical U.S. males’s measurement 8.5/9, and the 43s match completely. I had beforehand tried on the 42s within the previous mannequin of the Phantom 6000. However I discovered them barely too small length-wise.
Throughout the technical mountain climbing on Mt. Huntington, I by no means skilled any toe-bang. And I had loads of wiggle room to maintain my toes heat. I’d describe the match of the boots as fairly huge. However in my view, that’s in all probability higher for most individuals relatively than too slender.
The additional width allowed me to put on thicker and hotter expedition-style socks. I did expertise a little bit of heel raise that was laborious to fight, probably from the bootie/outer boot interface. I’m unsure if that was associated to my foot width or simply sizing, but it surely was noticeable. General, I’d say the heel raise was on par with different double boots I’ve tried.
I used to be impressed with how properly the lace lock system labored. I didn’t have to regulate the laces almost as a lot as I assumed. Usually, I would wish one preliminary adjustment on the base of the climb to tighten them up after the strategy. They at all times stayed taut after that.
Nevertheless, having to fiddle with the small laces was difficult with gloves. It was irritating to take away my gloves to regulate them. However fortunately, the boots required minimal fussing, and I used to be impressed with the comfy match.
Crampon Compatibility
Throughout each my outings, I used totally automated Petzl Darts in addition to Petzl Sarken crampons. I used the Petzl Sarken metal heel part with each. I discovered the boots’ and crampons’ curves to match completely.
The heel piece of the Sarkens was barely slender and typically made it tough to get an preliminary tight match. I needed to work a bit to get it seated, however as soon as it was set, it proved very safe. The usual toe-bails had been satisfactory. I didn’t have to swap them for the narrower variations.
Heat
Throughout our lower-elevation technical climbs, we climbed steep snow and ice as much as WI4 in 15-degree Fahrenheit highs at 8,000-11,000 ft in elevation. On the lengthy snow trudge and steep snow climbing to the bottom of the West Face Couloir route on Mt. Huntington, my toes did get slightly chilly.
The 1-3-plus-foot deep snow on the strategy and standing belays produced some chill. Nevertheless, I used to be impressed at how the boots appeared to heat again up after slightly motion, they usually by no means stayed chilly for lengthy.
I used to be notably impressed with the internal booties of the Phantom 6000. I used to be skeptical of how heat the sock-like knit construction can be, however the Aerogel materials of the soles did an awesome job insulating towards the snow. I usually wore the internal booties inside my down booties at camp as a result of the Aerogel sole saved the chilly out when standing round.
Excessive on the West Buttress route on Denali, I wore the boots from the 14k-foot camp and up all the best way to the summit. We had unseasonably secure and sunny climate with no wind, so heat by no means grew to become a difficulty.
I by no means skilled chilly ft, apart from briefly early within the morning on summit day, leaving the 17k-foot camp. Nevertheless, within the typical windier and colder Denali circumstances, I’d need an overboot.
Climbing Potential
Climbing on Mt. Huntington, I used to be capable of strive the boots in technical terrain as much as ~M7 and WI4. They carried out properly, and I used to be stunned at how related they felt to a single boot. They had been adequately stiff after I was front-pointing on small granite edges in my Dart crampons.
The boot climbed properly on the technical ice with a small however manageable quantity of heel raise. Possibly including some materials or a footbed beneath the bootie would take up some quantity and assist.
On the West Buttress of Denali, there’s not a lot technical terrain, however my ft had been comfy through the lengthy hours of climbing with heavy packs. Different workforce members complained of sore ft from their stiff boots after the lengthy 14-hour summit day. However not me.
This was a shock as a result of I often expertise sore ft climbing in my Phantom Techs, however not with the brand new 6000. I think it was the Aerogel materials that added a pleasant quantity of cushion to the ball of the foot.
I actually like this materials to be used in climbing boots. It appears like having a super-insulative gel insole relatively than the rock-hard underfoot really feel of different boots.
General, the brand new SCARPA Phantom 6000 climbed properly. I’m excited to have them for extra massive mountain days along with chilly cragging days in locations like Hyalite.
Sturdiness
Throughout the course of my 6-week journey, the boots held up properly, with no main indicators of wear and tear. The one space I observed a difficulty was the gaiter zipper. After a chilly day and having gotten moist from snow after which freezing, it acquired caught within the center.
It wasn’t till the boots thawed out that the zipper functioned usually. Throughout a multiday outing, I could be involved about breaking the zipper attempting to get the boot off if it’s frozen on the finish of the day or vice versa within the morning. I felt like I used to be going to interrupt it at one level, so I waited till they melted to take them off.
I didn’t get the prospect to check the boots extensively on any rocky terrain or approaches, so I can’t attest to the long-term sturdiness of the soles. Nevertheless, the Vibram Durstep rubber nonetheless regarded new after the journey.
SCARPA Phantom 6000 Boots: Conclusion
I used to be impressed with the Phantom 6000. They climbed and felt like a single boot however had been noticeably hotter and precipitated much less soreness for my ft on the finish of the day. I thank the Aerogel soles.
Sturdiness was satisfactory. The one slight concern was the long-term sturdiness of the gaiter zipper. The boots had been a lot hotter than one may guess at first look. I’m excited to have them for future outings. They’re an awesome addition to the SCARPA line of shoes.
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