Wrangling with tent poles within the savage coastal winds of the Outer Hebrides wasn’t how I pictured my first wild tenting journey. My pal Helen and I assumed we have been so intelligent tenting on a raised grassy verge on the seashore (consider the images!) however as quickly as we began organising, the storm started.
It was all good enjoyable although, laughing with Helen as we grappled with the man ropes trying to peg them down. Cackling at our failure to organize or keep one step forward of the climate scenario. At that time we had no concept of the sleepless night time forward of us and swiftly completed placing up the tent. We have been each keen to go again into Barra island’s important village of Castlebay for an Indian meal at Kisimul Restaurant, by the fortress, to heat us up.
The final time we might be heat for at the very least 12 hours it turned out.
We spent that night time contained in the two-metre excessive tent – far too excessive for wild tenting in a Scottish storm – desperately attempting to get heat in our separate pods. The fly sheet of the ‘swiftly’ erected tent was now flapping the place we hadn’t pegged it, neither of us had put the highest on so it was leaking, and what tent pegs there have been, have been slowly being ripped from the delicate floor by the coastal gale.
Have you ever ever laid awake at night time debating the likelihood of being blown away by gale power winds?
I’ve.
At one level in the midst of the night time I obtained as much as attempt to repair the tent pegs in higher than they have been, to cease the flapping. I simply seemed in despair on the tent, we’d achieved a horrible job.
The 2 us have been unable to sleep, deliriously laughing on the state of our actuality compared to what we’d imagined.
There was no different selection than to simply wait, and attempt to sleep. Our tent erecting efforts have been no match for the winds of the Western Isles of Scotland.
Visiting the Outer Hebrides
We’d come to the Outer Hebrides in between lockdowns in September, in determined search of journey. After being caught at house for months and summer time nearly coming to an finish, my pal and I wanted to get out and do one thing new. The Outer Hebrides appeared like a terrific reply due to the remoteness, the relative closeness, but the very fact we nonetheless obtained to go on a ferry and actually really feel like we have been travelling.
It was all final minute, with me planning our ferries and itinerary just some days earlier than.
We travelled over from Oban to Castlebay – a four-hour ferry journey recognized to be a bit tough. Straightforward I assumed – I can try this!
Cue two of the 4 hours of me sitting on the decrease deck barely capable of transfer for worry of being sick. That crossing is not for the faint hearted, or stomached.
From Barra we highway tripped north to Eriskay on the Isle of South Uist, and up the size of the island to North Uist to journey the size of that too. From the north of the island, in Berneray, we crossed over to Leverburgh on the Isle of Harris. Right here we drove as much as Stornoway – the capital of Lewis and Harris – and again down once more to Tarbert for our closing night time to get the ferry again throughout to Uig, on Skye, only a bridge away from the mainland. Our Outer Hebrides highway journey route was bold and can be over 350 miles of driving in lower than every week.
An journey!
We’d deliberate to wild camp as a lot as potential, to maintain it low-cost, however with the storms being so dangerous even the locals have been speaking about it, wild tenting on the Outer Hebrides proved tougher than we imagined.
Seashores within the Outer Hebrides
It was the images of the seashores within the Outer Hebrides I noticed on Instagram that drew me in. White sands, rugged coasts and azure waters… in Scotland!
There are over 100 islands within the Outer Hebrides, solely 15 of them are inhabited, with nearly half one million individuals. There’s house up right here, and that’s what we’d come for.
Candy, contemporary house.
The opposite important attraction, past the seashores and house, is the truth that wild tenting is authorized in Scotland, in contrast to in England. And with campsites and resorts in England full to capability over the summer time, tenting within the Outer Hebrides appeared like the proper socially distanced exercise for 2 adventure-starved journey lovers.
Outer Hebrides highway journey
Driving up via the Hebrides was superb. We crossed from island to island by ferry – the late summer time views and hues have been simply unbelievable. With a lot shoreline, empty roads and the well-known Outer Hebridean machair (the grassy plains) vibrant in color, it was a fantastic time to be there. The few points of interest there are on the islands have been closed, and so our full consideration was given to the pure magnificence specified by entrance of us.
Highlights of our journey included the seashore airport runway at Barra – the one one on the earth the place scheduled flights use a tidal seashore because the runway. It’s enjoyable to go and watch the airplane are available in, with all the opposite airplane spotters. Additionally, Traigh a Bhaigh Seashore on Varetsay off Barra was a feast for the eyes – admittedly as a result of it coincided with the very best climate we had all week.
Our day on Lewis included climbing, exploring the seashores, having fun with the Round Scenic Route (which included the spectacular Reef Seashore), going to see the Callanish Stones, studying in regards to the chess items of Lewis, and having fun with the Previous Village – a reproduction of how the homes right here was. Effectively, the short look we had across the exterior, as that too, wasn’t open.
In Harris we spent our day exploring Seilebost Seashore, Luskentyre Seashore, strolling to the Eilean Glas Lighthouse on the Island of Scalpay, purchasing in Tarbert, wishing we might go within the Harris Distillery, and usually having a stunning time with the liberty of our wheels.
Wild tenting on Benbecula
After the failure of that first night time of untamed tenting we tried once more in Cula Bay on Benbecula, South Uist. Once more, on a seashore, once more, on a grassy verge. Can we be taught?
A woman strolling her canine took pity on us. Spherical two of us wrestling with the poles within the coastal wind and for some motive pondering this might have a unique end result. Not so.
She knew we’d fail. She knew earlier than we did.
“In case you can’t get that factor up, my home is the one with the blue door down there” – she chirped as she went previous.
So form, however there was no manner Helen and I have been admitting defeat so quickly, and so publicly.
As darkness fell, and all we had round us was wind and the sound of the ocean, and the frustration in ourselves quite than a tent, Helen slept within the automotive and I purchased my one-man tent out for a really uncomfortable night time of tossing and turning.
We put it all the way down to a studying alternative for each of us.
Lesson in wild tenting
Regardless of the chilly, and the shortage of sleep, and what inevitably resulted in damaged tent poles – waking up on the seashores was so releasing. The enjoyable of ‘sleeping’ the place we selected, quite than the place we booked and paid was liberating.
It’s simple to see how and why wild tenting is so fashionable, and addictive.
Wild tenting is the good technique to hold your distance from different individuals, and to benefit from the solace that comes from tenting exterior wherever you need. We barely noticed a soul throughout our journey within the evenings. Anybody who was ‘wild tenting’ was doing it in a campervan or motorhome they usually weren’t popping out.
Over just a few pink wines sat on the picnic mat that night, with the sound of the ocean lashing within the background, we agreed that this specific journey wasn’t made for wild tenting, and we’d come again after we have been higher geared up.
Tomorrow, we search for a B&B. At some point, we’ll attempt once more.
Recommendation for wild tenting and driving within the Outer Hebrides
Wild tenting in Scotland is completely authorized, however there are guidelines to maintain it enjoyable and open to all. In case you’re feeling impressed by my wild tenting journey and wish to give it a go within the Outer Hebrides, make certain to observe the Scotland wild tenting guidelines to maintain it free and open for all.
The primary guidelines are:
- You gained’t keep longer than three nights in a single place.
- You’ll go away the spot how you discover it (or higher!).
- No fires.
- Respect animals, nature and different individuals.
High ideas for wild tenting
You have to be ready for wild tenting within the Outer Hebrides. Let me take you thru just a few classes discovered the arduous manner, so that you don’t make the identical errors!
– While you select a spot to camp, search for some kind of shelter. Not less than from one path. However, don’t camp between two excessive factors because the wind will funnel via to you. That contemporary coastal air can change into a howling gale in a short time!
– Getting the tent up is one factor, however getting the pegs to remain within the floor is one other. A lot of Scotland is both boggy, or dry – so you could have hassle with the tent pegs. I’d advocate getting some storm pegs for additional resilience.
– Don’t camp subsequent to a stream, or any physique of water, as little brooks can simply flip into torrents. You do NOT wish to get up to a river in your tent.
– Don’t transfer rocks or dig ditches to make your tenting spot higher. That’s not how wild tenting in Scotland works. And don’t camp close to individuals’s houses, or inside view from their home – they gained’t prefer it.
– My tent was too excessive, too arduous to place up, and there was an excessive amount of cloth to deal with within the wind. Relating to selecting a tent, go small, fundamental and as minimal as potential.
– It doesn’t matter what the time of years, count on the nights to be chilly and pack additional heat to your tent and sleeping bag.
– Arrive in good time to your spot, so you might have the time to select an actual spot earlier than dusk.
High ideas for driving
– Don’t fear in regards to the islands’ highway situations. The roads have been amazingly nicely saved and different motorists have been very courteous – we didn’t have an issue.
– You have to adhere to the rule of passing locations and pull over if the passing place is in your facet of the highway.
– Let different drivers move, as they is likely to be on their technique to work when you’re chugging alongside admiring the view.
– Maintain your petrol topped up because it may very well be a while between stops.
– Obtain your maps to your cellphone earlier than you begin as you won’t have cellphone reception to your journey. Any cafe or restaurant we requested was comfortable to present out their Wi-Fi code with a purchase order so we have been okay.
– Spend some cash regionally quite than taking your personal meals or utilizing supermarkets. Strive the fish marketplace for lunch in Oban, decide up some treats from the group store in Harris, attempt the Hebridean Toffee and eat out to style the native delicacies. It’s tempting to be 100% ready, nevertheless it’s enjoyable to pattern native produce and actually helps the native communities too.
Packing listing to your journey
A light-weight tent that’s tremendous simple to pitch, and lightweight.
Take high quality all season sleeping bag, and an insulated mat too. Possibly some kind of pillow? As much as you whether or not you might be bothered to hold it or not.
You want a technique to get water. I used to be positive with two bottles saved stuffed and saved within the automotive however you will get water therapy tablets from Boots simply sufficient.
Tenting range, with a fuel cartridge.
Take a cellphone energy financial institution, and the midge repellant.
You would possibly wish to deliver a First Support Package, a restore equipment for the tent, and a few hand sanitising gel too. Ensure that your toiletries are all biodegradable.
Some kind of picnic mat to take a seat out at night time. In case you’re in little climbing tents there’s no house to take a seat up.
