It’s June 2020. My girlfriend – now fiancée – was speculated to moved to the Czech Republic to stay with me, however right here got here an sudden impediment. As a Brit residing in Prague I used to be banned from coming into the US, and Kate was banned from coming into Europe.
Then the clouds half, Serbia opens up, and there’s a direct flight from New York to Belgrade. That’s only a nine-hour drive – plus a gnarly Hungary/Serbia border – from Prague. We make the preparations and I meet Kate, bleary-eyed from an in a single day flight, at Nikola Tesla Airport.
We don’t have a lot of a plan apart from ready until the Czechs open their borders to companions of residents and residents like they simply did for quick kinfolk, however at the least we’re collectively. (Spoiler alert: they allowed companions of residents in late July, as a part of the #loveisnottourism initiative. However #loveisnotforpermanentresidents, and we ended up ready until late September). We guess we’ll spend a while exploring Serbia whereas persevering with to work remotely, then perhaps North Macedonia?
Ultimately, we had been in Serbia for a bit over two weeks. Croatia opened its borders and we didn’t want a lot convincing. With mates and colleagues there, and it being the center of summer season, this was a incredible alternative to get to higher know a rustic we had each already spent loads of time in.
Apologies for the preamble, however this was all to set the scene as to the inspiration for the Croatia in Three Years itineraries. Based mostly on my experiences mixed together with her personal deep data, our knowledgeable Croatian journey planner Lidija put these collectively.
For lots of vacationers from the US, Croatia is approached in one among two methods: a packed south-to-north itinerary, with one or two islands, or sticking to the headline acts of Dubrovnik, Break up, and Hvar. The hazard with both strategy is saying “I’ve ticked Croatia off, no want to return”. The aim of those itineraries is to showcase a few of the many issues which are value going again for, and how one can take a number of bites at this Mediterranean peach, every with some acquainted flavors and a bit completely different each time.
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Dubrovnik, The Pearl of The Adriatic
There’s actually nowhere else to get a greater first impression of Croatia than Dubrovnik. The anticipation that has constructed up within the weeks main as much as your journey culminates at that second when your driver brings you across the nook and also you get your first in-person glimpse of the orange roofs of the walled metropolis jutting out into the azure sea. There’s nothing fairly prefer it. And on this itinerary, you’ll spend three days marveling at it from all angles.
Korcula, Marco Polo’s Hometown
No first go to to Croatia could be full with out some island time, and Korcula is a fantastic first island to go to. Marco Polo’s hometown, in response to the locals, Korcula is sort of a mini Dubrovnik. Getting past the Outdated City, you’ll be able to take pleasure in some incredible white wines from indigenous grape varieties, fantastic seashores, and untouched nature.
Cavtat, Dubrovnik’s Quiet Neighbor
To ensure you’re on the airport in time on your departing flight, it is sensible to move again within the route of Dubrovnik, by way of the Peljesac Peninsula, and on the way in which, you’ll be able to pattern Croatia’s heartiest pink, Dingač. You’ll positively need to take some dwelling! The delights proceed whereas nonetheless on Peljesac with a cease at a small family-run oyster and mussels farm. Find out how these shellfish are cultivated and take a look at them simply moments after being pulled out of the ocean.
I wrote “route of Dubrovnik” intentionally. On your final evening, we advocate staying within the smaller coastal city of Cavtat – it’s even near Dubrovnik airport. Not solely will you get some extra time in mattress (most departures that hyperlink up with transatlantic flights have a tendency to go away within the morning), however you’ll additionally expertise this calm little city as your final reminiscence of Croatia. Till your subsequent go to that’s!
Zagreb, Croatia’s Vibrant Capital
We swap gears for the second yr. Our Yr 3 itinerary may really feel a bit an excessive amount of of a direct continuation of the primary, so we’re going to indicate you some completely different elements of what may appear at first look like fairly a small nation. To place it in perspective, Croatia’s only a contact smaller than West Virginia in space, and Oklahoma in inhabitants. And but the north of the nation is dramatically completely different from the south by way of panorama, delicacies, and folks.
Begin your journey in Zagreb, the nation’s political, financial, and cultural capital. Central European café tradition, a la Vienna, meets Mediterranean chill. A few of the nation’s greatest meals is available in Zagreb, and it’s a superb likelihood to attempt a really completely different delicacies out of your journey final yr.
Rovinj, The Jewel of The Istrian Peninsula
Subsequent up is Rovinj, a coastal magnificence in Istria, the so-called Croatia’s Tuscany. In addition to being drop-dead attractive in its personal proper, it’s additionally an excellent base for day-tripping within the truffle-rich forested areas of inland Istria round Motovun and Groznjan, or to Pula, with its still-in-use Historical Roman amphitheater that’s on the UNESCO World Heritage Record.
Zadar, Croatia’s Underrated Gem
The panorama adjustments as soon as extra as you head south and inland to the Plitvice Lakes Nationwide Park. Whereas technically attainable to squeeze this right into a cease on an extended drive to your last vacation spot, Zadar, the beauty of staying for 2 nights is that you just get to enter the park as quickly because it opens within the morning, whereas the plentiful day-trippers from Zagreb, Zadar, and Break up don’t arrive till round 10:30 AM. Plitvice is one other of Croatia’s UNESCO websites and is a riot of vivid turquoise lakes, spectacular waterfalls, and deep inexperienced forests. Since you don’t depart until the subsequent morning, you’ll be able to take your time having fun with the park.
The ultimate cease on this itinerary is Zadar. As soon as an historic Roman metropolis, this outdated city positioned on a skinny peninsula has a enjoyable vitality due to its giant – by Croatian requirements – scholar inhabitants. With one full day right here, you’ll be able to both head to a different of Croatia’s nationwide parks, Krka, for some extra mountain climbing, or go for a pleasant boat journey across the Kornati Islands shut by. Zadar’s worldwide airport is effectively related with main European hubs on your onward flight dwelling.
Brač, Croatia’s Scenic Haven
Choosing up virtually the place we left off, this itinerary is a loop from Break up, Croatia’s largest coastal metropolis. You’ll get a glimpse of Break up, returning to it on the finish of your journey, as you go straight from the airport to the ferry port. This Croatia itinerary is all in regards to the islands. The primary of which is Brač.
Brač gives a laid-back re-introduction to Croatian island life. Much less glitzy than Hvar, it’s nonetheless wealthy in seashores, significantly probably the most well-known seaside within the nation, Zlatni Rat, or Golden Horn in English. The satisfaction of the island is its stone. The distinctive white Brač stone remains to be quarried and was used within the building of the White Home.
Hvar, Europe’s Sunniest Island
From Brač, a brief ferry experience will take you to Hvar. Simply Croatia’s most well-known island, Hvar has a celebration popularity, however peace and quiet are straightforward to return by. A guided hike or an island tour in a 4×4 is an effective way to get a really feel of how locals stay. Wine lovers will benefit from the island’s Plavac Mali, a relative of Californian Zinfandel. No journey to Hvar is full and not using a cruise across the Pakleni archipelago. Your skipper is aware of all the most effective bays and a wonderful place for lunch.
Vis, Croatia’s Attractive Hidden Treasure
When staying in Hvar, many individuals take a complete day boat journey to see the Vis Blue Cave. What they’re lacking by doing that is exploring the island of Vis itself. Vis is particular and that’s why we’ve chosen to allocate probably the most nights to it. Vis has a singular historical past. It’s been of navy significance for hundreds of years – the British constructed a fort right here – and it even has historic Roman ruins. Throughout the Yugoslavia years, it was a fortress island. These days, you’ll be able to discover the gun placements and even the tunnel {that a} submarine might slip into. A driving tour of the island with a cease at a family-owned vineyard will take you to all these plus Komiza, a fishing village on the opposite facet of the island.
Apart from the navy historical past, there’s the compulsory Blue Cave journey. Nevertheless, you get to mix that with the Inexperienced Cave and a seaside and swim cease, circumnavigating the island, relatively than the hurried strategy of visiting the Blue Cave from Hvar.
Break up, Croatia’s Summer season Capital
Your three years of Croatian travels come to an finish in Break up. Keep inside the partitions of the Outdated City and select a resort constructed inside the ruins of a retired Roman emperor’s palace. Absorb the wealthy historical past that’s Croatia, from antiquity as much as the people artwork and costumes within the most interesting ethnographic museum within the nation. Stroll alongside the Riva promenade, and take your final glances on the perfection of the Adriatic. For now at the least.
Dovidenja – Until We Meet Once more
Now you’ve got a strong top-to-bottom data of Croatia, you’ll be able to come again and fill in a few of the different gaps, or see a few of your favourite locations once more. I do know Kate and I’ll as there’s all the time one thing new to fascinate us in Croatia. And, then, there are all these reminiscences that may by no means cease bringing us again to the Land of a Thousand Islands for extra.
Charlie is head of selling at JayWay Journey. An extended-term Prague resident, his pursuits are cooking, consuming out, biking, snowboarding and naturally, journey.