The now-grown-up wunderkind from Germany flat-out rips at Margalef. 4 years after establishing the world’s most difficult route, Megos returned for extra.
In a cathedral of conglomerate epics, Alexander Megos’ “The Full Journey” (5.15b/9b) might be the pulpit. The 29-year-old put the ending touches on the two-pitch route on Oct. 9. Merely put, it quests out an enormous yellow roof at a wild, steep angle.
Even with Megos’ preternatural energy and stamina, he knew the massive rig wouldn’t give up simply.
“I knew piecing the primary and second half collectively wouldn’t be simple, regardless of the excellent relaxation on the anchor of the primary pitch,” he wrote on Instagram.
It didn’t.
“On my first day again in Margalef final week, I might get a repeat of the primary pitch, however to truly add the second half, it took 6 extra days of attempting,” he wrote.
British climber Tom Bolger, who now lives in Margalef, first bolted the road. Megos stated he was desirous to really feel out the product of Bolger’s imaginative and prescient throughout a go to to the world this April — however he ended up a day late and a greenback brief. Megos left the nation the day earlier than Bolger hammered within the final bolt.
Evidently, having secured the bolter’s blessing, Megos leaned proper again into it this previous weekend. He described its character and motion with an institutional vocabulary.
“The primary half is pure energy endurance on largely two-finger pockets with a tough mono transfer within the center.
“The second half is a boulder with a fairly violent lifeless level transfer to a mono and some extra onerous strikes after,” he wrote.
If you wish to see what climbing at Margalef is like, take a look at the “Perfecto Mundo” 5.15c uncut ship video. Spoiler alert: onerous for lengthy.
Megos famous {that a} good relaxation between the primary and second “elements” (or pitches) of “The Full Journey” proved important to his potential to finish it in a steady effort. Then, in accordance with the type as of late, he supplied a caveat to his evaluation of its problem.
“Each elements match my type very nicely, I’d say, so I’m curious to listen to what repeaters suppose.”
As you’ll recall, Megos’ “Bibliographie” was the world’s second 5.15d rock climb till Stefano Ghisolfi repeated it.
We doubt any of that bothers Megos. You’ve acquired to faucet into focus bordering on hermetic to climb something this lengthy and this steep — not to mention this rattling onerous.
