A Fast & Soiled Information to the Peaks of the Balkans Path

For hikers of a superstitious bent, the prospect of trekking by means of the Balkan’s Accursed mountains might evoke greater than just a little trepidation. And up till pretty not too long ago, this nervousness would have been wholly justified as a consequence of the truth that the area was one of the vital harmful areas on the earth. Nevertheless, for the reason that flip of the millennium, the Balkans have undergone an unimaginable transformation. What was as soon as a no-go zone has now begun to open its doorways to vacationers, together with backpackers desirous to expertise its long-hidden pure wonders on foot.  

The Peaks of the Balkans Path is a 192 km (119 mi) loop hike that passes by means of the spectacular borderlands of Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. Linking collectively characterful mountain villages by means of shepherd’s paths and unpaved forestry roads, the whole circuit (there are a number of iterations) consists of 10 levels and will be tackled independently or as a part of an organized group. I hiked the Peaks of the Balkans Path with Kate “Swept Away” Pickett within the fall of 2023, as a part of an prolonged journey within the Balkans area and Greece.

Gazing towards the village of Theth from slightly below Pejë Move (Albania) (Picture Credit score – Kate “Swept Away” Pickett).

(Be aware: The Peaks of the Balkans Path is among the featured hikes in my sixth and newest e-book with Gestalten publications, Wanderlust Mediterranean (which was launched internationally final week). The e-book options 26 unimaginable hikes from across the Mediterranean area, together with day journeys, multi-day classics, and multi-month thru-hikes). 

At a Look:

Distance:  192 km (119 mi) 

Common Length:  10 days (Be aware: Stronger hikers carrying a light-weight pack can do it in six or seven days. For these eager about a extra mellow schedule, together with a zero-day and a few aspect journeys, it might take as much as 12 or 13 days). 

Issue Stage: Reasonable

Start/End: The Peaks of the Balkans is a loop hike that may be began and completed in varied areas. The most well-liked (and best to entry) are Theth (Albania), Pejë (Kosovo), and Plav (Montenegro).

Whole Elevation Acquire & Loss: 12,020 m (39,436 ft)

Origins: The Peaks of the Balkans Path was established in 2012 by means of a joint effort of the German improvement company GIZ and native and nationwide motion teams. The undertaking’s persevering with targets are to foster a way of cross-border unity, help in defending the area’s natural world, and assist native inhabitants create a sustainable type of eco-friendly earnings. 

Overview map of the Peaks of the Balkans Path (Picture from the Peaks of the Balkans Web site – See Planning under).

Highlights:

• Dawn from Tromedja (“Three Border”) Peak.
• The magical karst panorama round Prosllopit Move.
• Magnificent views from Pejë Move and the following descent into Theth. The identical goes for Valbone Move and its namesake valley. 
• Historical beech forests
• Sampling native delicacies within the villages alongside the route.
• The unimaginable hospitality of the Balkans individuals.
• It’s probably not a spotlight, however one of the vital affecting points of the hike was the juxtaposition between dramatic pure magnificence and the remnants of the area’s current somber historical past (See Notes & Musings under).

Broad-ranging vistas from the summit of Tromedja (“Three Nations”) Peak (2,366 m/7,762 ft).

Wandering by means of stunning karst panorama on the best way to Prosllopit Move (Albania).

Starting the descent to the village of Vusanje (Montenegro).

Getting There & Away:

• From a logistical perspective, Plav in Montenegro is probably the most easy beginning and ending level. From the nationwide capital of Podgorica, it’s just below 4 hours’ journey by bus, and there are 4 every day departures. Essentially the most scenic selection is arguably the mountain village of Theth in Albania. It’s a 2.5-hour bus journey from Shkodër (Albania) and one other 90 minutes from Podgorica.

Plav (Montenegro) is the largest city on the Peaks of the Balkans Path.

The emblematic church of Theth (Kisha e Thethit in Albanian).

Season:

• Late Might to early October. Wildflowers are at their peak in June, August is the warmest month, and fall colours start in early October, which additionally historically heralds the primary snowfalls.

Wild campsite on the climb to Prosllopit Move (Albania)(Shelter – Tarptent Stratospire 2).

Planning Sources: 

• Guidebooks: Trekking the Peaks of the Balkans Path (Cicerone Press) by Rudolf Abraham has an in depth abstract of the hike, together with trekking notes, primary maps, aspect journey strategies, distance and time estimates, and logistical data. The e-book is on the market in Kindle or paperback. For German audio system, I’ve heard good issues concerning the Peaks of the Balkans Information by Max Bosse and Kathrin Bosse-Steinweg.

• On-line: The Peaks of the Balkan Path’s official web site is a strong start line to your analysis. The positioning features a stage-by-stage breakdown and a few helpful planning data. On the time of writing, probably the most effective on-line useful resource is shoesyourpath.com. Run by a French couple named Quentin and Charlie, this glorious web site accommodates a great deal of logistical data (e.g., permits, journey, finances, lodging, and so forth.), an in depth day-to-day diary, aspect journey strategies (particularly the magnificent Grebaje Valley), and a few wonderful photographs from their journey.

Descending from Valbone Move into its namesake valley (Albania).

• Cell/Cellular Cellphone Protection: On the time of writing, you’ll possible have protection in Plav, Theth, and (probably) among the excessive factors. Many of the guesthouses alongside the route have Wifi.

• Permits: The Peaks of the Balkans path crosses backward and forwards between Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. Earlier than setting out, aspiring thru-hikers might want to receive a cross-border allow. Whether or not strolling independently or with an organized group, probably the most hassle-free manner of doing that is on-line by way of a good native tour operator. We used the Albanian-based Zbulo.org, which offered fast and inexpensive service (Be aware: It’s really useful to ship your utility at the very least two weeks upfront of departure).

Resupply & Water:

• Meals: Most meals alongside the Peaks of the Balkans Path will be procured on the route’s homestays/lodges. Tariffs usually embody hearty meals that encompass homegrown produce akin to cured meats, bread, cheese, yogurt, and greens. Dinner is typically washed down by beneficiant servings of the native firewater rakija, a power-packed fruit brandy discovered all through the area. Concerning grocery shops, your finest choices are in Plav and Theth; the previous has a far wider vary of decisions at extra inexpensive costs.

• Water: Potable water can all the time be obtained on the villages alongside the route. In between settlements, hikers ought to filter or deal with water because of the prevalence of grazing animals alongside a lot of the path.

A hearty second breakfast of selfmade bread, peppers with a decadent quantity of churned cream, espresso, and a large mound of scrumptious fries (Grla Restaurant in Vusanje, Montenegro)(Picture Credit score – Kate “Swept Away” Pickett).

Kujtim Gocaj Guesthouse within the village of Çerem provides hearty meals, together with lodging.

Route/Situations: 

• The Path: From a distance perspective, the Peaks of the Balkans Path is cut up pretty evenly between Montenegro, Albania, and Kosovo. The path traverses some distant areas, linking collectively small villages by way of mountain paths and little-used forestry roads. The way in which is marked by totally different variations of pink and white markers, together with the occasional “Peaks of the Balkans” signal.

Picture Credit score – Kate “Swept Away” Pickett.

Picture Credit score – Kate “Swept Away” Pickett.

• The Terrain: The Prokletije (“Accursed”) Mountains constitutes the southernmost part of the Dinaric Alps, a mountain vary that stretches roughly 700 km (435 mi) from Italy within the northwest to Albania within the southeast. Notable for its putting karst topography, whereas passing by means of the Accursed Mountains, hikers will traverse glacially-sculpted valleys interspersed with a collection of excessive passes, rugged limestone peaks, crystal-clear tarns and lakes, sinkholes, and yawning caves. 

• A Historical past of Hospitality: The Peaks of the Balkans Path provides hikers an insider’s perspective on the area’s conventional pastoral life. Because of the arrival and development of the path, some locals have transformed rooms of their properties to accommodate hikers, with a purpose to complement their seasonal farming and shepherding incomes. The lodgings are normally easy however clear, and what they might lack in fashionable facilities, they make up for within the heat welcome of their hosts. Treating vacationers as honored company moderately than transitory strangers is nothing new to the individuals of the Accursed Mountains. Hospitality has all the time been an integral a part of native tradition, and such is its significance that it was truly codified into conventional Albanian legislation (Kanun).

Approaching the seasonal village of Dobërdol (Albania).

Alternate Routes:

1. Valbona to Ceremi by way of Prosllopit Move – Although longer and tougher than the “official” lowland route by way of the Ceremi River, the path over Prosllopit Move is among the scenic highlights of the Peaks of the Balkans and not-to-be-missed.

2.  Kosovo Minimize-Off Choices: The entire Peaks of the Balkans Path takes round 10 days to finish. The most well-liked alternate routes – which shave off round two or three days or 20-30 % of the path – bypass a lot of the Kosovo part (a few of which is routed alongside paved roads). That is normally carried out by leaving the official route throughout the Stage 4 part between Dobërdol (Albania) and Milishevc (Kosovo). The principal departure factors are as follows:

A. The saddle slightly below the summit of Tromedja (Three Nations) Peak. From there it’s 5 km (3.1 mi) WNW to rejoin the principle path at a junction simply above Lake Hrid (Montenegro);

B. Round 6 km (3.7 mi) north of the Tri-Peaks saddle near Roshkodol Move (Kosovo). From this level, it’s only one.3 mi (2.1 km) to rejoin the principle path, situated simply west of the small village of Babino Polje (Montenegro).

C. The village of Milishevc (Kosovo), from which hikers can stroll simply over 5 km (3.1 mi) due west to reconnect with the principle path at a signed junction on the Kosovo/Montenegro border ridge. 

Peak hour visitors leaving Valbona (simply earlier than the turn-off to Prosllopit Move).

Arriving at Prosllopit Move.

Sleeping:

• Tenting is feasible, however most hikers use homestay lodging in villages alongside the route. 

• The primary overnighting factors alongside the route are as follows (in a counter-clockwise route starting in Theth): Theth (Albania), Valbona (Albania), Cermi (Albania), Dobërdol (Albania), Milishevc (Kosovo), Reka e Allagёs (Kosovo), Drelaj/Restaurant Te Liqeni (Kosovo), Babino polje (Montenegro), Plav (Montenegro), and Vusanje (Montenegro).

• Our Expertise?: We wild camped except for a few nights in Theth and Dobërdol.

Bashkimi Guesthouse in Dobërdol (Albania).

Notes & Musings:

Somber Remnants of Current Historical past

Throughout the Peaks of the Balkans Path hikers will encounter common reminders of the area’s war-torn previous within the type of deserted guard towers, cemeteries, and concrete-domed pillboxes situated on prime of lonely mountain passes. A couple of hundred thousand of those small bunkers will be discovered all through the picturesque Albanian countryside, all of which have been constructed on the behest of the Communist dictator Enver Hoxha between the Nineteen Sixties and Nineteen Eighties. The juxtaposition between pure magnificence and somber historical past is putting.

Concrete-domed pillbox on the Peaks of the Balkans Path.

The Lock-in Tower of Theth

Other than its well-known outdated church, probably the most notable human-made web site in Theth is the 400-year-old ‘lock-in’ tower (“Kulla” in Albanian). This double-storey stone constructing was as soon as a protected haven for locals engaged in blood feuds with neighboring clans. It was in these spartan confines that an individual who was marked for retribution would spend weeks (and even months) in hiding. Lengthy a part of conventional Albanian tradition, blood feuds (“gjakmarrja” in Albanian) have been a social or familial obligation through which an individual was entitled to “an eye fixed for an eye fixed” within the identify of honor. The fortified tower is now a museum. Opening hours are sporadic; if it’s closed once you arrive, of us in neighboring properties will open it upon request.

The Kulla of Theth.

Inside of the Kulla in Theth (Picture Credit score – Kate “Swept Away” Pickett).

Dawn from Tri-Nations Peak

The next story is from the “Creator’s Anecdote” part of the Peaks of the Balkans Path in Wanderlust Mediterranean: 

“The views you need to work for sometimes resonate probably the most. Placing forth additional effort makes the reward simply that little bit sweeter. That was exactly the case when Kate and I ascended Tromedja Peak (2,366 m/7,762 ft), the famed mountain that straddles the border of Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania. 

The earlier night, we arrived late into the distant settlement of Dobërdol (Albania). We have been hungry and just a little weary on the finish of an extended, chilly, and moist day on path. Upon reaching the charming alpine hamlet, we made a beeline for the Bashkimi Guesthouse. There, we managed to obtain the final obtainable room and, inside 20 minutes, sat all the way down to what was a much-anticipated meal. Some associates who had beforehand hiked the path had spoken glowingly concerning the high quality of meals on provide at Bashkimi. The fare included bottomless bowls of soup, recent backyard salad, tasty potatoes, and a scrumptious savory pie by the identify of Byrek, an Albanian staple that consisted of spinach and feta between skinny layers of phyllo. After a strong two hours of feasting, we waddled again to our room and referred to as it an evening. 

The next morning, we rose earlier than 5 am. After brewing espresso and gobbling down some snacks, we donned our layers and headlamps and set off. The temps have been south of freezing (we have been mountaineering in early October), and apparently, we have been the one ones up and about. Quickly after leaving the guesthouse, we handed a lone tent on the village outskirts. The inhabitants have been simply waking, and within the useless calm earlier than daybreak, we may clearly hear the yawns, rustling of plastic luggage, and one of many campers colorfully exclaiming, “It’s #*!#@* freezing on the market! I’m going again to sleep.”

Persevering with on, the going was extraordinarily steep, and the “path” was something however clear within the pitch darkness. Nonetheless, Kate and I huffed and puffed our manner up the slope and located ourselves on the height’s shoulder some 40 minutes after leaving the guesthouse. After one other 20 minutes of scrambling, we have been on the summit, simply in time to gaze east to see the solar’s emergence over the peaks of the Balkans. The 360-degree panorama was a jaw-dropper in each route. Soaking within the soothing heat of the morning rays, we sat down and loved a second breakfast of cereal and powdered milk. Out within the wilderness, even the best of meals style nice. We had this magnificent mountain prime all to ourselves, and we couldn’t assist however suppose how lucky we have been to be welcoming in a brand new day from such a gorgeous place.”

Picture Credit score – Kate “Swept Away” Pickett.

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