How a Chef’s Homestay Close to Phnom Penh Is Preserving Cambodia’s Culinary Heritage

Most individuals wrestle to explain Cambodian cooking. Chef Rotanak Ros begins by saying what it’s not.

“Cambodian delicacies isn’t survival meals,” the 39-year-old Ros instructed me. Popularly generally known as “Chef Nak,” the superstar chef is an lively advocate of Cambodian, or Khmer, delicacies. She collaborates with the workers at Brasserie Louis at Rosewood Phnom Penh, within the Cambodian capital, and companions with the resort to supply epicurean experiences (non-public cooking courses, market excursions, and food-focused homestays) in her hometown of Prek Loung, a 40-minute drive away. 

Ros has additionally revealed two cookbooks that delve into a few of Cambodia’s most iconic dishes. As a part of her analysis, she spent 19 years crisscrossing her nation, coaxing villagers to share recipes for half-forgotten dishes. She fears that until work like hers continues, Khmer meals traditions will probably be misplaced over the approaching generations. 

Cambodian delicacies sometimes incorporates rice, fish, soups, loads of spices, and recent produce. However Ros is fast to level out that these fluctuate enormously relying on the place you’re. “Khmer meals is regional, seasonal, and really personalised,” she stated.

Ros’s mission to reinvigorate Khmer eating stems from her nation’s poisoned previous. Within the late Nineteen Seventies, an estimated 2 million Cambodians — almost 1 / 4 of the nation’s inhabitants — died via mass violence, hunger, and illness underneath the novel communist regime of the Khmer Rouge. As the federal government eradicated non-public property and meals grew to become scarce, rice gruel grew to become a staple and other people started consuming bugs, bats, and even toxic fruits. 

“Massive, advanced dishes had been decreased right down to no matter components you could possibly discover to outlive,” stated Ros, whose sunny demeanor and signature spherical glasses conceal a grit that developed from an impoverished childhood. She was born 5 years after the Khmer Rouge regime led to 1979. “We misplaced the bottom to carry on to, the roots of who we had been. After that, when you requested individuals what Cambodian meals was, they may title solely 5 dishes at most.”

The load of that historical past felt worlds away once I arrived at Ros’s homestay after crossing the Mekong River’s ocher currents outdoors Phnom Penh. The grounds had been lush, with a big pool framed by palm timber that beckoned within the afternoon warmth. Ros and her husband, Sarin Chhuon, purchased the property in late 2018 as a rustic getaway; over time, it has grown from a easy farm patch into an Edenic compound. Friends keep in two 100-year-old picket homes relocated from the cities of Siem Reap and Battambang that native craftspeople painstakingly disassembled, cleaned, and reconstructed to Ros and Chhuon’s specs. 

At this time, the three tastefully appointed bedrooms and open-air lounge areas are crammed with accents like hand-painted diptychs of apsaras, or celestial dancers, and Ros’s spectacular vintage assortment. Essentially the most valuable piece is a picket bowl from Chhuon’s childhood that his household introduced with them after they moved from the Kendal province to Siem Reap in the hunt for a greater life. 

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I stayed at their residence for 2 nights, having fun with luxuries like air-conditioning and a non-public out of doors bathtub and bathe, in addition to considerate touches just like the tiny saucer of aromatic jasmine flowers that accompanied my ingesting water. Whereas there isn’t any spa, massages had been obtainable on demand. 

Ros’s homestay packages, that are organized for personal teams solely, vary from a five-course meal to the cooking class and multi-night keep I attended. On the primary evening, dinner was a relaxed however clever procession of Khmer dishes, which I realized have been influenced by Indian, Thai, Chinese language, Vietnamese, and French cooking (the nation was a French protectorate from 1863 to 1953). It could possibly additionally fluctuate by area and sophistication. For instance, fish amok, a widely known coconut-based curry, would possibly contain fillets, a mix steamed in coconut shells or banana leaves, or a soup that features the entire fish. 

Khmer delicacies additionally sometimes consists of an exuberant use of uncooked leafy greens, various spices, and all kinds of piquant (however hardly ever spicy) dressings. My tea kanh salad consisted of a banana-leaf cone exploding with frizzled shallots, uncooked bean sprouts, duck breast, snake beans, and peanuts, all dressed with lime juice and fish sauce and showered in chrysanthemum and water-hyacinth petals — and nice enjoyable to eat. 

“It’s essential that we’ve candy, bitter, and salty flavors in our salads,” stated Ros, who performs the position of each host and historian throughout her meals. “We by no means use oil, and there ought to be plenty of crunch.”

There was additionally cary trie, a platter of components designed to be blended collectively: a small crock of curry ringed by rice noodles, snakehead fish steamed in banana leaves with recent lemongrass and coconut cream, and little piles of julienned cucumber, bean sprouts, and banana flowers. I ate samlor muktaa, the primary dish, in a deeply appreciative silence, relishing each spoonful of the fragile pork-and-chicken consommé containing juicy prawn parcels, scallions, and tiny house-made tapioca pearls. (There’s a recipe for the soup in Ros’s cookbook Saoy.)

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The subsequent morning, Ros and I prepped for a cooking class with a visit to Prek Loung’s small market, a 10-minute stroll away, the place we discovered feathery tamarind leaves and miniature gourds, glistening snails and writhing, just-gutted river eels. We picked up a small bag of fingertip-size freshwater shrimp, then strolled again via the village, stopping solely to pattern a heart-shaped, unexpectedly briny “fish mint” leaf from a vine. “Rising up, meals had been a little bit of protein and no matter was rising on the fence,” Ros instructed me.

Again at her place, we stirred the shrimp into a skinny rice-flour batter earlier than gently sliding it into effervescent oil, which yielded filigreed shrimp fritters that had been one of the best I’d ever had. Ros confirmed me the way to prepare dinner beef tenderloin with crispy shallots in cups of chaphlou leaves, which tasted much like mint, and the way to make a standard model of fish amok, pounding aromatics comparable to lemongrass, garlic, shallots, and galangal (a rootstalk associated to ginger), including shrimp paste, coconut cream, and fish sauce, then mixing in chunks of snakehead fish. Lastly, we usual banana-leaf disks into little bins utilizing toothpicks, dolloped the combination inside, and positioned them in a steamer.

Whereas I blissfully misplaced observe of the hours in Ros’s tranquil, teak-lined hideaway, an actual sense of urgency drives her work. “Perhaps 100 years from now, this place may very well be an actual museum, with a backyard crammed with edible crops,” Ros instructed me. “There can be a whole lot of recipes that generations of individuals would have in any other case forgotten.” 

Rosewood Phnom Penh epicurean expertise with Chef Nak from $950 for 2 individuals, together with an in a single day keep, excursions of the chef’s residence and gardens and the native market, a cooking class, and limousine transfers. 

The place to Eat Khmer Delicacies in Phnom Penh

Brasserie Louis

Providing town’s loftiest views from the thirty fifth flooring of Rosewood Phnom Penh, Brasserie Louis rotates a menu of 10 signature Khmer dishes.

Kravanh

Established in 2009, this bungalow-style fine-dining venue is a go-to for conventional Khmer orders, backed by a culinary staff that prioritizes utilizing components from small-batch suppliers.

Malis

Celebrated chef Luu Meng serves elevated avenue meals in three set menus or à la carte at Malis. Attempt the royal mak mee, a plate of crispy fried noodles topped with slices of marinated pork.

Sombok

Chef Kimsan Pol leads an all-women staff at Sombok, an upscale restaurant on the banks of the Tonlé Sap River. A spotlight is the sombok samlor korko, which some Cambodians regard as a nationwide dish. — Samantha Falewée

 A model of this story first appeared within the August 2025 difficulty of Journey + Leisure underneath the headline “Recipe for Success.”