Not solely have I spent a big period of time in New England however I lived within the Boston space for over a decade. Throughout that chapter of my life, We Weblog the World didn’t exist nor was I writing about journey. That mentioned, my recollections are recent and vivid, from enjoyable cultural and social occasions to getting misplaced in nature.
We headed again East this summer time and have been capable of return to my favourite haunts. How a lot have they modified? In truth, I used to be shocked at how little had modified. Let’s begin with Boston itself. Certain, there’s much less building (and disruption) than after I lived there; nonetheless, different highway work continues. We arrived late at evening, so leaping on Storrow Drive to move out to an AirBNB in Waltham was pretty stress-free (and fast) however returning to Logan was a little bit of a problem as a result of present work on the Sumner Tunnel. My staple route alongside the Charles River was a well-known one, a lot in order that I used to be on auto-pilot for a lot of the journey.
Fairly frankly, writing this text, after little or no journey in the course of the quieter years of Covid, feels extra “international” than visiting my previous stomping grounds, which embrace Newton, Watertown, Cambridge, Somerville, Jamaica Plain, Walden Pond, Rockport, Gloucester, and Cape Cod (not essentially in that order).
Oh yeah, and let’s not neglect Belmont the place I lived for a stint . . . an extended one. That drive-by was a bit emotional as reminiscence after reminiscence got here pouring by way of, together with the time my ex and I watched the squirrels from our bed room window working alongside the fence and strategized how we might deter them from mucking about in our tomato crops. The barbecues, yard guide group gatherings, cooking up a storm in our loud apricot ginger kitchen, and shoveling the driveway each winter. The brand new house owners (renters?) planted a vegetable backyard within the entrance and amidst squash, lettuce and peppers, a couple of tall and sprightly sunflowers greeted me from the sidewalk.
There was no time to go to Nantucket this time round; nonetheless, examine our journey 8 years in the past and be sure you see the breathtaking summer time sunflowers we encountered throughout a motorbike journey. When you do head to Nantucket or Martha’s Winery, a couple of gems price exploring in Cape Cod in your manner embrace Chatham, Truro and Wellfleet.
We returned to Gloucester’s Rocky Neck and went down reminiscence lane (see our journey a few years in the past which we took in by bike). Actually, when you examine the images, you’ll see loads of similarities: the quirkiness of the outlets, the inventive flare of the artists’ exterior studio facades, the colourful flowers in entrance of the stained-colored buildings and galleries. The weathered look from chipped paint on entrance homes, bikes, boats and cafe doorways. It was a lot quieter than I remembered.
The principle addition to our expertise this yr was a melancholy story shared by artisan Stephen Laptierre, whose work took over the most important gallery area within the Artwork Colony. Artisans are actually the breath of Rocky Neck. There’s a historical past right here and locals are rightfully happy with that historical past, one which has drawn artists and musicians alike to arrange foot on her soil for years.
Artists have had a tough time sustaining their studios with prices hovering and fewer vacationers coming by way of. Little question, a part of it may be attributed to the Covid years which affected so many store house owners, eating places and cafes. That mentioned, it gave the impression of the problem went a lot deeper as we listened to Stephen’s insights. He lives in his studio, so the lease for his gallery is mixed along with his price to reside—it’s the exact same area he lays his head to relaxation each evening. Beneath, Anthony seems on as he shares story after story, together with the meanings behind every of the work. What a riveting journey and but I sensed a deep unhappiness, as if we have been getting ready to an finish to a really particular period.
His studio was definitely eclectic and work lined each single wall, from ceiling to ground on all sides, together with the hallway main out to an exterior picket stairway that took you all the way down to the principle road. Off to the left was a sink, range and tea kettle and there was a sofa someplace within the midst of all of it if I recall. And a desk.
It’s not all artwork in Rocky Neck however the galleries are what most draw individuals to go to. There’s additionally the uncooked and genuine ambiance of crusing life throughout you, dock after dock, boat after boat . . . This distinctive treasure is located on a rocky peninsula tucked away inside Gloucester’s working harbor.
Gloucester
Rocky Neck isn’t all there may be to Gloucester. There are a number of quaint neighborhoods together with a couple of purchasing areas which I really like to walk. Who doesn’t love cafes, vintage shops and quaint boutiques in New England? When you don’t, then I’d argue you may not gel with New England. In spite of everything, it’s the connection to all issues historic (not less than by American requirements) that convey individuals to the Northeast. Since Anthony and I grew up within the area, it was like going house: the house we grew up realizing by way of its distinctive smells, tastes and sights.
Rockport
A stone’s throw from Gloucester lies Rockport, and it tends to be custom to go to every time I’m within the space. Possibly the draw is Rockport’s acquainted toffee and ice cream outlets, or the pewter retailer I do know so effectively. Or maybe its the numerous enjoyable occasions I’ve had alongside its pedestrian walkway and the handfuls of lobsters I’ve eaten there, inside and out. One of the notorious picturesque views in New England might be present in Rockport though some Maine natives would possibly argue with me on that one.
As many occasions as I’ve been to Rockport, I had by no means set foot within the church on the left alongside Broadway. I by no means had a cause to; nonetheless, this time we ventured into St. Mary’s Episcopal Church out of curiosity. I had forgotten how a lot I really like previous church buildings and cathedrals; it’s one of many issues that make meandering by way of previous European cities so fascinating. They inform a narrative: a area or metropolis’s tradition. Its historical past. Perception techniques are baked into their partitions and stained glass home windows. They continue to be alive by way of the vitality they emit as you look on.
Included within the stained-glass home windows at St. Mary’s is a communion roll initially meant for a aspect chapel, which presents a collage of Yeshua’s (Jesus’) parables. A sanctuary candle always burns and there’s an altar designed to be the aumbry the place the Blessed Sacrament is reserved.
There are fairly a couple of artwork galleries to soak up, notably Don Gorvett, Jeffrey Marshall, North Shore Arts Affiliation, Marilyn Swift, Cripple Cove Studios, Michalak Positive Artwork, Stefan Mierz Positive Artwork Studio, Ruth Mordecai, and Judythe Evans Meagher amongst quite a few others.
Rockport most likely isn’t the most effective place to get lobster within the space, largely as a result of it’s dearer than heading a bit of additional north alongside Route 1. There are many locations to get seafood, both sitting down or grabbing a cuppa New England creamy chowder to go. On the very finish of Bearskin Neck (#68 to be exact), you’ll discover My Place by the Sea and it didn’t appear like it modified in any respect for the reason that final time we had a romantic meal on their deck roughly eight years in the past. We have been planning to repeat the expertise however it was closed, so we headed to Fleur Delicacies Harborside on the wharf as an alternative. The ambiance was pretty; nonetheless, the meals was solely good, not nice and the service was bit disappointing.
One other favourite spot is Floating Lotus. In years gone previous, we used to attend their sound baths on the highest ground. Homeowners are husband and spouse group Justin and Karin, who do a fantastic job at curating distinctive objects. Largely from Asia, these honest commerce objects vary from jewellery and tapestries, to singing bowls, garments and statues. On this go to, Anthony walked out with a ravishing labradorite ring we have been each instantly drawn to. They maintain sound experiences of their Bearskin Neck location and bigger spiritually-minded occasions at their Gloucester location alongside Primary Avenue.
Salem
Roughly eight years in the past, we spent a couple of month touring varied components of New England, most of it spent in Massachusetts. Make sure to see our write-up on Salem the place we landed by chance. We have been shocked by how a lot enjoyable we had there. When you love historical past, are dazzled by spirituality or the occult, the American house of witches will be sure you whet your urge for food. Sadly, we weren’t capable of meet up with Lori Bruno, doubtless probably the most famend witch in Salem if not the nation.
She touts herself as a Hereditary Excessive Priestess and Elder of the Sicilian Strega line of the Craft of the Clever, founder and Head Mom of Our Lord and Woman of the Trinacrian Rose Church. We have been capable of catch her by cellphone and her voice introduced us again to yesteryear and the visions we had of our time along with her in her mystical store Magika on Federal Avenue. With a connection to Egypt as effectively, she is a descendant of Gohar–al–Siculi, a Common within the Fataniid Empire, who in A.D. 969 was despatched by the caliph of Baghdad to beat Egypt. In line with her, this he did after which went on to discovered Cairo. Beneath is a shot taken with Lori in her retailer.
We spent a number of days in Salem on our final go to, so took in among the witch excursions (by day and evening), segway-ed our manner by way of city, walked the cemeteries by evening, ate fabulous meals (yum – Finz Seafood & Grill) and skilled a couple of motels. We additionally managed to get out on a ship, a schooner and extra. The climate didn’t cooperate this time round as we have been greeted by torrential rainfall upon arrival. The sustaining drizzly skies drove us into the huge block lengthy Witch Metropolis Consignment Store by chance. While you’re working for canopy, any open retailer will do. Positioned on Essex Avenue, it was simply mystical and mesmerizing sufficient to maintain us busy for a couple of hours whereas ready for the rain to subside. We left with two packing containers of goodies, all of which we shipped house. If that is your “factor,” you may also wish to notice different outlets price visiting, reminiscent of Hex Previous World Witchery, The Cauldron Black Enchanted Store and the HausWitch Residence & Therapeutic.
Boston
A stroll by way of Boston’s historic district and Quincy Market was a good way to spend our remaining afternoon on this previous American metropolis. In spite of everything, Anthony had by no means been to this a part of the town and I used to be curious to see how issues had modified. And naturally I ached to purchase one thing of their notorious meals corridor. On the way in which, we took a leisurely stroll alongside the waterfront, taking within the websites and sweetness.
A panoramic view of the harbor and waterfront space in historic Boston.
Heading towards Quincy Market alongside the water. The sunshine is completely beautiful at nightfall.
A few of the delights within the Meals Courtroom. Okay, so I bought carried away by a l’il dessert coloration.
Then we headed to the North Finish for dinner and low, beginning at Naples-influenced Ristorante Saraceno, excellent for Anthony’s heritage and choice for southern Italian dishes. It’s a staple — not the most effective Italian meals on this planet, however it’s GOOD and the ambiance is epic.
And simply take a look at the structure.
Then there’s Francesca’s alongside the identical principal drag and solely a stone’s throw from Seraceno.
Though locals could argue that there are different cafes that trump the cappuccino at Caffe Vittoria, it stays one in all my favourite spots, largely due to the recollections of my youth. All these late nights ingesting espresso after lengthy work nights. And to high it off, little or no has modified in regards to the place. In different phrases, it’s as I remembered. The ambiance. The tables, chairs, espresso, desserts, lighting — all of it.
Generally, you’ve simply bought to indulge your inside youngster and relive the tastes, smells and experiences of yesteryear simply because. Fortunately our mates indulged us each step of the way in which.
Somerville
Though I wrote earlier that so many issues felt comparable strolling on previous roads, stopping in outlets of previous and re-visiting favourite eating places and cafes, it wasn’t the identical, largely as a result of I’m not the identical. That mentioned, it introduced me nice pleasure to drink and dine once more in a few of my previous neighborhoods. Somerville’s Dali continues to be alive and kicking. A Spanish Tapas Bar simply exterior Cambridge’s border, it was the proper spot to collect twenty or so previous mates from my time residing within the space.
Whereas the tapas are nonetheless heavenly, it’s the ambiance that brings me again repeatedly. They nonetheless ship on that distinctive old-world expertise fifteen years later.
New Hampshire’s Coast
When you cross over into New Hampshire, there’s loads to see inland, which embrace nice hikes and weekend getaways, however we simply love the coast. This previous journey solely allowed for southern New Hampshire adventures attributable to time constraints; nonetheless, we used to drive up Route 1 typically from Boston, exploring the small cities alongside the coast and we did the identical for a lot of Maine as effectively.
Like Maine, there are many lobster shacks, however the trendier city of Portsmouth not solely gives trendy culinary spots to dine however has nice structure. Additional south simply over the Massachusetts border is Newburyport the place I spent quite a lot of time in my thirties. On this journey, we stayed with mates in Hampton and went out to dinner nightly, visiting their favourite eateries—what a deal with. Scroll beneath for a couple of of these memorable experiences.
Throughout the day, we walked up and down the seashores, accumulating seaweed, rocks and shells for my varied artwork initiatives like I at all times do after I journey. You may dine in or buy clams, oysters, lobster, crab and different seafood to cook dinner at house.
Kittery Maine
There’s not a lot to this artsy little city simply over the Maine border, however we went main to drink and eat. And take a look at artwork in fact. It’s a beautiful stroll down the principle drag and there are some great walks and hikes close by.
Consuming & Eating
If you need a extra informal expertise merely to get your “lobster repair” in southern NH, a couple of choices embrace Brown’s Lobster Pound (we had one picnic desk model earlier than heading out of city) and Markey’s Lobster Pool, each in Seabrook, Al’s Seafood in North Hampton, Smitty’s State Pier Lobster Pound in Hampton, Ray’s Seafood in Rye and Lobster Boat Restaurant in Litchfield, the latter of which is a identified spot for old-school seafood and pasta.
Beneath, my lobster order earlier than and after.
Whereas I needed to succumb to 2 roadside lobster meals, we additionally wished to attempt a couple of elegant and tasteful eating spots and our native foodie mates Gail and Steve have been the proper hosts.
First, we ventured to Black Trumpet in Portsmouth which gives a seasonal, eclectic menu with gluten free, vegetarian, vegan and nut free choices as well. They provide a wonderful Cheese and Charcuterie Plate or you’ll be able to go for their Shrimp Ceviche Tostada with Cucumber-Nasturtium Pico to kick off your meal. Anthony and I needed to attempt the Tea-Smoked Duck Breast with Beet-Noodle Seaweed Salad and Black Garlic Nigella Emulsion. Merely put, it was to die for.
Primary course choices embrace a Brandade Crusted Halibut with Succotash, Swiss Chard, Marinated Tomatoes and Zucchini Sauce, a Soy-Brined Iberico Pork Loin with Buckwheat Noodles, Bok Choy, Umeboshi Plum Puree and Tempura Scallions and a Pan-Fried Zucchini Feta Cake with Mushrooms, Native Greens, Beet Yogurt and Orange Blossom Honey. (Notice the Asian affect)
Desserts have been equally divine, with Chocolate and Cherry Clafoutis and Spiced Mascarpone and Cherry Syrup, and White Chocolate Panna Cotta with Shaved Enna Chocolate and Nilla Water Crumbs all on the menu. And the way about this one? Sweetheart Beet and Plum Swiss Roll with Mascarpone Buttercream and Maple Creme Anglaise? Are you able to say Heavenly 3 times after a couple of cocktails and any of those delicious sweets?
For cocktails, a should go to is the ever so distinctive bar in Kittery Maine known as The Wallingford Dram.
Let’s simply say that all of their cocktails had us at hi there. Uncommon mixes embrace the next (they have been too wonderful to not publish intimately):
- A Fist within the Mouth of Time: Bourbon, Smoke, Fernet, Espresso Brandy, Bitters, Lavender
- We Are Nonetheless Us: Buttered Hay Washed Brandy, Black Pepper, Cumin and Orange Curacao with Egg White and Lemon
- Victims of Late Success: Bourbon, Aperol, Mango, Pine, Preserved Lemon, Coco Blast, Nogori Sake (sure, actually), Seltzer and Mint
- Jupiter Jazz: Jalapeno-infused Mezcal, Amaro Montenegro, Passionfruit, Lemon, Orgeat, Szechuan Peppercorns
- By Witchcraft: Cranberry Infused Gin, Dry Curacao, Lime, Cassia, Creme De Violette (excellent for the area)
- Tankgirl: Tequila, Aperol, Cherry Heering, Lemon, Orgeat, Pineapple and African Birdseye Chili
- Excessive Priestess: Raspberry-Hisbiscus Gin, Blackberry, Lime, Dry Curacao, Chocolate Bitters and Egg White (gotta love the title)
- Dame Shrub: Gin, Rosemary Pear Shrub, Lemon, Ginger, Primary Hemlock, Seltzer
- A Secret Backyard Highball: Earl Gray Tea Vodka, Home Bitter Lemon Soda
- Boat Cowboy: Tequila, Boubon, Allspice Dram, Pineapple Gomme, Birds Eye Chilli and Bitters
- Northsea Lineman: Rye with Islay Scotch, Maraschino, Pune e Mes, Bitters and Salt
- Leatherman: Bourbon, Carpano Antica, Lapsang Souchong Liqueur and Bitters (Anthony had two – hey, we weren’t driving)
- One thing for Timmy: Olive Oil Washed Bourbon, Inexperienced Chartreuse and Bitters
- Eddy and the Bridge: Strawberries, Peychaud’s Bitters, Pineapple Gomme, Tequila, Guajilo Pepper, Lemon, Seltzer and Thai Basil
Wow proper? I might go on however you get the thought. Extremely inventive, numerous and strange. We might have sat there all evening.
Additionally in Kittery Maine is Anneke Jans, which can also be an uncommon discover for the world. Begin your evening with cocktails at The Walllingford Dram after which stroll over to Anneke Jans for dinner. They provide European-influenced American dinners, small plates and drinks in a snazzy, cosmopolitan setting.
We began off with Oysters and Mussels as a result of how might you not in the event that they’re on the menu? The chef prepares their Maine mussels with bacon, onions, white wine, cream, and Nice Hill blue cheese. Yum, proper?
Different delicious bites at this magical spot embrace Lobster Salad with Inexperienced Corn Relish and Avocado Mousse, Grilled Scallops with Succatosh, Candy Corn Soubise, Citrus and Leeks, their Scottish Salmon with Mango Quinoa Salad, Shiitake Mushrooms, Bok Choy and Miso Ginger Glaze, and Steak Frites with Romesco.
Make sure to try two current articles on simply meals within the space: High Boston Foodie Picks by Class and Delicious Northeast Restaurant Information.
Mass Pike to Upstate New York (Facet Journey)
I name this part a aspect journey for the reason that Adirondacks will not be technically thought-about New England, though the small cities in upstate New York are similar to a lot of the cities I’ve visited in Maine (particularly Maine), NH and Vermont with solely minor nuances. We grew up within the Adirondacks so there are many articles to learn and footage to soak up. I wished to level to 4 highlights to this specific journey.
1. Exploring the Nice Sacandaga Lake by Boat
Hire a ship and get out on the Sacandaga Lake on the base of the Adirondack Mountains. There are eating places the place you’ll be able to dock and have lunch on a beautiful sunny afternoon (solely works from June till August)
2. Artwork Trails in August
Every summer time, Fulton County has a weekend Artwork Stroll and we lucked out this yr as we have been on the town for it. All through Mayfield, Gloversville, Northville, Edinburg, Wells and Broadalbin, you’ll be able to go to artists’ galleries, a few of that are of their houses.
Our favourite artist picks this yr embrace Alexandra Higgins whose medium is basically oil and acrylics on canvas and sculptor, Robyn Isabella whose medium is basically working with copper and mosaic tiles (she technically wasn’t on this yr’s Artwork Stroll however she’s my sister, so she will get a name out since her work is amaaaazing), Panorama oil painter Marion Kratky and Michele Johnsen, who focuses on Driftwood Artwork.
Beneath is Mosaic Artwork by Robyn Valentine.
Galleries ranged from garages, houses, and barns to co-ops, conventional workplace buildings and past.
For extra info, try the Sacandaga Valley Arts Community and the SVAN Arts Middle – they’re svanarts on Fb and based mostly in Northville NY. Beneath are a couple of photographs I took alongside the highway close to Gloversville New York.
3. Lenox Massachusetts is a enjoyable place to discover when you’re heading to upstate New York. Make sure to cease by the standard and ever-so historic Purple Lion Inn. Sit on the porch, order some biscuits, a cheese plate and an enormous pot of tea. We browsed among the cute outlets alongside the principle drag of Lenox for an hour or so earlier than grabbing some drinks and assembly an previous pal.
Beneath, simply exterior The Purple Lion Inn in Lenox.
4. Coxsackie New York. There’s not a lot right here, however a pleasant lunch spot is Yanni’s Restaurant alongside the river the place I managed to meet up with an previous highschool pal and his spouse.
5. Vintage-ing
We solely visited a handful of vintage outlets in Northville and Gloversville this yr. On our manner again to Boston, we spent extra time than we anticipated in a Ballston Spa Vintage Emporium. A couple of hours really. Sure, actually. The place is fabulous and when you love conventional (previous) authentic work, they’ve a ton of choices adorning almost each wall. We left with some artwork, a big picket horse head and a ceramic bowl I couldn’t depart behind. Evidently, touring house was a little bit of a problem however we made it with out one factor breaking. Thank God for bubble wrap.
A lot extra might be mentioned about our journey again East. Eating places and cafes have been ignored, particulars missed, nature walks and riveting conversations omitted. Extra footage have been taken. Extra bread was damaged. Extra recollections have been made. For me anyway, America’s Nice Northeast is at all times well worth the journey. Thanks for the sweetness of all of it.